Chaucerian Garments


CloaksHoodsPilgrims’ Scrips (Bags)Pouches and Purses .
Hat Badges .

Cloth Industry - Medieval & Tudor

Although the playlist below depicts cloth production after the 15th century, processing would be little changed since the late medieval period.
Norse Crafts - Spinning, Weaving, Leather .



Spindle & Distaff .



Spinning Wheels .



Weaving .



Natural Pigments, Plant Dyes .



Links to specific activities demonstrated in documentary:
Woad excerpt in Secrets of the Castle (new window) .
Ochre excerpt 1 in Secrets of the Castle (new window) .
Ochre excerpt 2 in Secrets of the Castle (new window) .

Fiber, Cordage, Spinning

Drop-spindle spinning > .

Viking Handcraft: Spinning with the hand spindle > .
Making Neolithic Bone Textile Tools - Sally Pointer > .
Medieval Professions - KoHi >> .

Norse Crafts - Spinning, Weaving, Leather
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izoKG1c7h3A&index=1&list=PLXYFDuJaCJL3IGOmFG7sWSVCBNDJn7te5


Medieval Cloth Industry ..
https://mittelzeit.blogspot.com/2015/01/medieval-cloth-industry.html

Time to spin 1 lb of yarn
pre-12th century pedal-powered wheel - 500 hours
1700, pre-industrial pedal-powered wheel - 200 hours
1800 water-powered wheel - 3 hours
1824 - improved water-powered wheel - 1 hr 20 min
---
The standard measure of bulk linen yarn is the "lea", which is the number of yards in a pound of linen divided by 300. For example, a yarn having a size of 1 lea will give 300 yards per pound. The fine yarns used in handkerchiefs, etc. might be 40 lea, and give 40x300 = 12,000 yards per pound. This is a specific length therefore an indirect measurement of the fineness of the linen, i.e., the number of length units per unit mass. The symbol is NeL.(3) The metric unit, Nm, is more commonly used in continental Europe. This is the number of 1,000 m lengths per kilogram. In China, the English Cotton system unit, NeC, is common. This is the number of 840 yard lengths in a pound.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linen
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dowlas
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_fabrics

Hand spinning | Spindle & Distaff - Elice Quillinane
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaZaTKY1Rzc
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXYFDuJaCJL210lRSTHDbkGzPMNsrI1U4

The origins of spinning fibre to make string or yarn are lost in time, but archaeological evidence in the form of representation of string skirts has been dated to the Upper Paleolithic era, some 20,000 years ago.

Spinning is an ancient textile art in which plant, animal or synthetic fibres are drawn out and twisted together to form yarn. For thousands of years, fibre was spun by hand using simple tools, the spindle and distaff. It was only with the invention of the spinning wheel in India, and its subsequent introduction to Europe in the High Middle Ages, did the output of individual spinners dramatically increase. Mass production only arose in the 18th century with the beginnings of the Industrial Revolution. Hand-spinning remains a popular handicraft.

Characteristics of spun yarn vary according to the material used, fibre length and alignment, quantity of fibre used, and degree of twist.

Hand cranked 'walking' wheel, man carding wool c. 1340. England.
https://lhresources.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/woman-at-spinning-wheel-with-man-carding-smithfield-decretals-british-library-royal-10-e-iv-fol-147v-c-1340.jpg

The Spinning Wheel was invented in India, between 500 and 1000 C.E. The earliest clear illustrations of the spinning wheel come from Baghdad (drawn in 1234), China (c. 1270) and Europe (c. 1280), and there is evidence that spinning wheels had already come into use in both China [a] and the Islamic world during the eleventh century. In France the spindle and distaff were not displaced until the mid 18th century.

The Spinning Wheel replaced the earlier method of hand spinning with a spindle. The first stage in mechanizing the process was mounting the spindle horizontally so it could be rotated by a cord encircling a large, hand-driven wheel. The great wheel is an example of this type, where the fibre is held in the left hand and the wheel slowly turned with the right. Holding the fibre at a slight angle to the spindle produced the necessary twist. The spun yarn was then wound onto the spindle by moving it so as to form a right angle with the spindle. This type of wheel, while known in Europe by the 14th century, was not in general use until later. The construction of the Great Wheel made it very good at creating long drawn soft fuzzy wools, but very difficult to create the strong smooth yarns needed to create warp for weaving. Spinning wheels ultimately did not develop the capability to spin a variety of yarns until the beginning of the 19th century and the mechanization of spinning.

In general, the spinning technology was known for a long time before being adopted by the majority of people, thus making it hard to fix dates of the improvements. In 1533, a citizen of Brunswick is said to have added a treadle, by which the spinner could rotate her spindle with one foot and have both hands free to spin. Leonardo da Vinci drew a picture of the flyer, which twists the yarn before winding it onto the spindle. During the 16th century a treadle wheel with flyer was in common use, and gained such names as the Saxony wheel and the flax wheel. It sped up production, as one needn't stop spinning to wind up the yarn.

On the eve of the Industrial revolution it took at least five spinners to supply one weaver. Lewis Paul and John Wyatt first worked on the problem in 1738, patenting the Roller Spinning machine and the flyer-and-bobbin system, for drawing wool to a more even thickness. Using two sets of rollers that travelled at different speeds, yarn could be twisted and spun quickly and efficiently. However, they did not have much financial success. In 1771, Richard Arkwright used waterwheels to power looms for the production of cotton cloth, his invention becoming known as the water frame.

More modern spinning machines use a mechanical means to rotate the spindle, as well as an automatic method to draw out fibres, and devices to work many spindles together at speeds previously unattainable. Newer technologies that offer even faster yarn production include friction spinning, an open-end system, and air jets.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinning_wheel#History

Spinning around the world - HerodesAtticus
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLX-AdHBdc5t-mx1bahCv1PrUGyQOHZQB_

Hand cranked 'walking' wheel, with woman carding wool. The Luttrell Psalter c.1320-40. England.
https://lhresources.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/hand-cranked-walking-wheel-the-luttrell-psalter-c-1320-40.jpg?w=630

https://lhresources.wordpress.com/workroom-textile-skills/history-and-gallery-spinning-2/

Hand spinning | Spindle & Distaff
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaZaTKY1Rzc
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXYFDuJaCJL210lRSTHDbkGzPMNsrI1U4

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_spinning

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_spinning

Spinning around the world - HerodesAtticus
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLX-AdHBdc5t-mx1bahCv1PrUGyQOHZQB_

Ancient Skills - Tony Blake playlist
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtakTnKQQMCyObHHCBCSpSX55SVjasr1J

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toyOKOi0DsM&list=PLtakTnKQQMCyObHHCBCSpSX55SVjasr1J&index=11

Medieval rope-making in Visby market > .

Fiber yield/acre

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linen

Clothing weight:
Man's dress shirt requires ~ 10 ounces of cotton = 125 hours (200*10/16) in 14th century
Pair of jeans ~ 24 ounces = 300 hours (200*24/16) in 14th century,

Fleeces

The Bourne Archive is a thirty-eight page booklet presented with the compliments of T.W. Mays and Son, of Bourne. It is un-dated but internal evidence indicates that it comes from shortly after 1905, and before 1909.

Hide preparation: Woolstapling and Fellmongering:

Fleeces: "There are four distinct qualities of wool on every sheep, the finest being upon the spine, from the neck to within six inches of the tail, including one-third of the breadth of he back. The second covers the flanks between the thighs and the shoulders. The third clothes the neck and the rumps, and the fourth extends from the lower part of the neck and breast down to the feet, and also upon a part of the shoulders and thighs to the bottom of the hind quarters. These are torn asunder and sorted on the fleece being delivered after the shearing ... No less than twelve or fourteen distinct varieties of wool can be obtained by the experienced stapler, and as it is sorted it is baled ready for dispatch to Bradford and other wool centres.

Independent of the quality of fineness, there are two sorts of wool which afford the basis of different fabrics, and are somewhat differently treated in the process of spinning. The long and the short Lincolnshire sheep are noted, of course, for their long, heavy wool. The Lincoln hog has a long staple with a curly fibre; the Lincoln wether has a short staple with no curl. The half-breed has a fine wool, the staple of the hog and wether being also long and short respectively.

It may not be uninteresting to explain that after the removal of the first fleece the tup-hogget becomes a shearling, the ewe-hogger a grimmer (generally called in Lincolnshire gimmers), and the wether hogget a dinmont (hence the name “Dandy Dinmont.” After the removal of the second fleece, the shearing becomes a two-year wether, the grimmer a ewe, and the dinmont a wether. After the removal of the third fleece the ewe is called a twinter-ewe, and when it ceases to breed, a draft ewe. To “cast a sheep’s eye” at one is to look askance, like a sheep, at a person to whom you feel lovingly inclined, and no doubt the sheep regards the shearer lovingly when he removes his heavy winter coat. This begins to be rugged in Spring, or early in Summer, and in June is ready for shearing.

But besides the fleeces, Messrs Mays are large purchasers of “farmers’ locks,” the name given to the wool cut from the sheeps’ tails prior to shearing. These locks, when carefully treated, yield a second grade wool of excellent quality; and during the Japanese War Messrs. Mays did an enormous business in this wool, which was turned into khaki and blankets for the Japanese troops. Their great sorting shed in June presents a scene of great animation, one side being occupied by women picking these “clag locks.” They do not entirely separate the dirt from the wool, but what they have picked is put into “willyingmachines,” the drums of which are studded with iron spikes, and which, driven by a gas engine 14, perform from five hundred to a thousand revolutions a minute, and take the excreta from the wool. This contains much nitrogen, and is a valuable consistent of the Artificial Manure made by Messrs. Mays, who waste nothing that comes to them. Formerly, the “clag blocks” were washed on the farm, and the dirt made soluble and the liquid thrown into the dykes or rivers; but Messrs. Mays deal with it, as will be seen, in a scientific manner, and it is, of course, and invaluable ingredient of their Manures."

gipon

During the 14th century, the gipon (or jupon) was first worn as a snug, knee-length, padded tunic beneath armour. Later, it was adapted to civilian use, and its length was shortened to mid-thigh. It was replaced by the doublet in the 15th and 16th centuries. It was sometimes called the pourpoint.

Origin:
1350–1400; ME jopo ( u ) n < MF jupon, equiv. to OF jupe a kindof jacket + -on n. suffix

Knitting, Nålebinding, Sprang

Knitting, Nålebinding, Sprang

Knitting is a technique of producing fabric from a strand of yarn or wool. Unlike weaving, knitting does not require a loom or other large equipment, making it a valuable technique for nomadic and non-agrarian peoples.

The oldest knitted artifacts are socks from Egypt, dating from the 11th century CE. They are a very fine gauge, done with complex colorwork and some have a short row heel, which necessitates the purl stitch. These complexities suggest that knitting is even older than the archeological record can prove.

Earlier pieces having a knitted or crocheted appearance have been shown to be made with other techniques, such as Nålebinding, a technique of making fabric by creating multiple loops with a single needle and thread, much like sewing. Some artifacts have a structure so similar to knitting, for example, 3rd-5th century CE Romano-Egyptian toe-socks, that it is thought the "Coptic stitch" of nalbinding is the forerunner to knitting.

Most histories of knitting place its origin somewhere in the Middle East, and from there it spread to Europe by Mediterranean trade routes and later to the Americas with European colonization.

Archaeological finds from medieval cities all over Europe, such as London, Newcastle, Oslo, Amsterdam, and Lübeck, as well as tax lists, prove the spread of knitted goods for everyday use from the 14th century onward.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_knitting
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitted_fabric#History_of_knitwear
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A5lebinding

Sprang 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2pcDEnN3Jk
Sprang 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAEfWnhMKRM
Sprang 3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MmrfDV5m18
Sprang 4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yz429pqqdO4
Sprang 5
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqb2NYxXfVs
sprang braiding just one row
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qc1kPywxgcc
Sprang braiding making holes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4cJYWlMUAk .

Leather tanning - Medieval to Edwardian

Medieval tanner
In need of shoes, gloves, armour, bottles, saddles, harnesses, bellows, sheaths, or scabbards? In the Middle Ages, you would rely on leather workers in a sequence that ran from husbandman to butcher, skinner, and fellmonger. Leather 'workers' included skinners, tanners, curriers, and specialist leather artisans, such as saddlers. (Detailed description of leather-working techniques here.)

Tanners enjoyed the exclusive right to purchase cow hides from butchers. The lighter, smaller skins of sheep, goat, pig, and deer were handled by fellmongers and preserved by tawers (also known as a tawyers or whittawers).


Medieval furrier
In tawing, the hide was soaked in an aqueous solution containing potash alum and salt. Sometimes egg yolk and flour were added to improve the product. Strictly speaking, not having been tanned, a tawed skin is not leather, and is putrescible when wet.

Because horns and hooves had no value to a butcher, they often left them attached to the skins. Wherever the tanner discarded horn cores and hooves, their remains are a sign that a pit was associated with a tannery.

Horners valued the outer layer of the horn. So the archaeological remains of tanneries typically include pits where horn cores and hooves have been discarded along with scraps of leather (1º, 2º, 3º). However, glue could made by boiling scraps of leather, adding to the stench of the tanning operation.

Barks, Roots, Fruits, Nuts and Leaves are used for their tannic acid to tan skins. Tannin converts hides permanently into leather. Oak, hemlock, fir, mangrove, wattle, eucalyptus, acorn caps, sumac, pine, spruce, willow and many more have been used all around the world for this process that seems almost magical in it's ability to transform fragile, rot-prone skin into a material with much loved unique properties. Natural Leather Tanning relies heavily on these traditional materials.

The full article and list can be read at http://www.skillcult.com/blog/tanningmaterials

Of interest: 13th century cat- and goat-hide shop excavated in England.

Making parchment: video.

Medieval tanning pits - Birmingham ~1300
https://youtu.be/JZq9cBzrIVI?t=155 .

Click on images to enlarge.

View of medieval tanning pits - wood-lined trenches and pits
in scale model of Birmingham, England around 1296 CE.

Tanner scraping hides
close-up of lower centre section of image above.

View of medieval tanning pits from different angle
scale model of Birmingham, England around 1296 CE.

As the model shows, tanners needed access to water, which they necessarily contaminated with the chemicals and byproducts of their foul-smelling trade.
Modern Vegetable-Tanned Leather (So Expensive) - BusIn > .

Take a video tour of the model of medieval Birmingham (tanning pits at 2m 35s, new window)

The following summary of the tanning process is adapted from here.

After removing the horns and hooves, and trimming unusable portions of the hide (belly, areas around head and legs, udders, and hide edges), the tanner washed blood, dung, and dirt from the hide.

Next, fat, hair, and flesh were removedusually by immersion in a solution of lime or urine. (In sufficiently warm conditions, the hide could be sprinkled with urine and folded hair-side inward to encourage rotting of the hair follicles.)

After treatment, loosened hair was scraped from the hide with a blunt single-edged knife, and flesh was removed with a sharper, double-edged knife.

After rewashing, the hide was de-limed and and softened by one of two alternate processes:
a) an alkali-rich process of immersion in warm dog dung or bird droppings
b) drenching in a solution of barley or rye in stale beer or urine

The hides were washed again, then agitated in a solution of crushed oak bark. After being layered with ground bark, the hides were transferred to a pit filled with a weak tanning solution. Later, they would be moved to a tank containing a high concentration of tannins, in a process that required at least a year to complete.

After 12-18 months soaking in tannin solutions, the tanned hides were rinsed, and smoothed using a two-handled setting pin. Next, they were dried slowly in a dark shed before being sent to a currier, for stretching, shaving, and softening by the application of greases, sometimes brain.



Although oak bark was used extensively in Britain, other plant materials were substituted: fir, white willow (Salix alba), sweet chestnut (Castanea sativa), oak galls, birch, alder, hemlock, heather, and the rhizomes of some ferns.
  • Oak bark contains both types of tannin: catechols and pyrogallols.
  • Catechols are more astringent, act more quickly than pyrogallols, producing leathers of pink, red or dark brown hues: birch, hemlock, alder, and fir bark.
  • Pyrogallols improve leather's wearing properties and resistance to water, so they are favored for sole leather, bookbinding, and upholstery. They produce pale leather varying from creamy or yellowish to light brown: sweet chestnut, oak galls, and oak-wood.
19th, early-20th century descriptions:
Leather, Parchment, Fur - ElQu >> .
Tanning Videos >> .

Full Bark Tanning Process - Video Series - SkCu >> .
Best Traditional Leather Tanning Videos - SkCu >> .
Tanning and Leather - SkCu >> .
Hide Tanning - SkCu > .
Hide Glue, from Start to Finish - SkCu >> .
Brain Tanning Hair On 1 - SkCu > .
Brain Tanning Hair On 2 - SkCu > .
Brain Tanning Hair On 3 - SkCu > .
How I Process Deer Legs for Sinew, Skins, Bones, Hooves and Glue Stock - SkCu > .
How to Remove Sinew from a Deer - SkCu > .
How to Remove Backstrap Sinew Cleanly, Without Wasting Any Meat 1 - SkCu > .
How to Remove Backstrap Sinew Cleanly, Without Wasting Any Meat 2 - SkCu > .
How to Remove Backstrap Sinew Cleanly, Without Wasting Any Meat 3 - SkCu > .

The Magic Ingredients That Turn Skin Into Leather - Barks, Roots and Leaves for Natural Hide Tanning > .
Q&A, Tanning Furs v.s. Leather - SkCu > .Leather from Salmon (or other fish) Skin - Zed > .
Why Vegetable-Tanned Leather Is So Expensive - BusIn > .

Ancient tanneries—now a tourist attraction—have been discovered beneath the modern city of Nottingham within a system of caves cut into the soft sandstone as houses, cellars and workplaces.

"Nottingham was once known as Tigguo Cobauc in Old Brythonic meaning Place of Caves by the Welsh Bishop of Sherborne (Asser) in his The Life of King Alfred (893)." [w1]

"Two caves cut into the cliff face and opening out to daylight housed the only known underground tannery in Britain. The Pillar Cave was originally cut around 1250 but had been filled in by a rock fall by 1400. Cleared and reopened as part of the tannery in 1500 with circular pits cut to hold barrels. A second cave was also cut with rectangular clay-lined vats. The small size of the vats in these caves indicate that they were probably used for sheep or goats skins rather than cowhide. There was an opening to the River Leen where they would wash the skins in the town's drinking water." [wc]

remains of Medieval tannery
discovered beneath Nottingham, England

City of Caves tannery, Nottingham

City of Caves tannery, Nottingham
Virtual flyround of the caves devoted to tanning:

Fly-round playlist - arch >> .

All you could possibly want to know about the archaeology of leather-working, particularly of footwear in huge pdf file.


2022 Fish Skin Leather ~ Restaurant Waste | BusIn > .

Papyrus

Some Of The Last Papyrus Makers In Egypt - 5,000-Year-Old Craft - BuIn >
.


Papyrus is a material similar to thick paper that was used in ancient times as a writing surface. It was made from the pith of the papyrus plant, Cyperus papyrus, a wetland sedge. The English word "papyrus" derives, via Latin, from Greek πάπυρος (papyros), a loanword of unknown (perhaps Pre-Greek) origin. Greek has a second word for it, βύβλος (byblos), said to derive from the name of the Phoenician city of Byblos. The Greek writer Theophrastus, who flourished during the 4th century BCE, uses papyros when referring to the plant used as a foodstuff and byblos for the same plant when used for nonfood products, such as cordage, basketry, or writing surfaces. The more specific term βίβλος biblos, which finds its way into English in such words as 'bibliography', 'bibliophile', and 'bible', refers to the inner bark of the papyrus plant. Papyrus is also the etymon of 'paper', a similar substance. In the Egyptian language, papyrus was called wadj (w3ḏ), tjufy (ṯwfy), or djet (ḏt).

Papyrus (plural: papyri) can also refer to a document written on sheets of such material, joined together side by side and rolled up into a scroll, an early form of a book.Papyrus is first known to have been used in Egypt (at least as far back as the First Dynasty), as the papyrus plant was once abundant across the Nile Delta. It was also used throughout the Mediterranean region and in the Kingdom of Kush. Apart from a writing material, ancient Egyptians employed papyrus in the construction of other artifacts, such as reed boatsmatsropesandals, and baskets.

Papyrus was first manufactured in Egypt as far back as the fourth millennium BCE
Papyrus is made from the stem of the papyrus plant, Cyperus papyrus. The outer rind is first removed, and the sticky fibrous inner pith is cut lengthwise into thin strips of about 40 cm (16 in) long. The strips are then placed side by side on a hard surface with their edges slightly overlapping, and then another layer of strips is laid on top at a right angle. The strips may have been soaked in water long enough for decomposition to begin, perhaps increasing adhesion, but this is not certain. The two layers possibly were glued together. While still moist, the two layers are hammered together, mashing the layers into a single sheet. The sheet is then dried under pressure. After drying, the sheet is polished with some rounded object, possibly a stone or seashell or round hardwood.

Sheets, or kollema, could be cut to fit the obligatory size or glued together to create a longer roll. The point where the kollema are joined with glue is called the kollesis. A wooden stick would be attached to the last sheet in a roll, making it easier to handle. To form the long strip scrolls required, a number of such sheets were united, placed so all the horizontal fibres parallel with the roll's length were on one side and all the vertical fibres on the other. Normally, texts were first written on the recto, the lines following the fibres, parallel to the long edges of the scroll. Secondarily, papyrus was often reused, writing across the fibres on the versoPliny the Elder describes the methods of preparing papyrus in his Naturalis Historia.

In a dry climate, like that of Egypt, papyrus is stable, formed as it is of highly rot-resistant cellulose; but storage in humid conditions can result in molds attacking and destroying the material. Library papyrus rolls were stored in wooden boxes and chests made in the form of statues. Papyrus scrolls were organized according to subject or author, and identified with clay labels that specified their contents without having to unroll the scroll. In European conditions, papyrus seems to have lasted only a matter of decades; a 200-year-old papyrus was considered extraordinary. Imported papyrus once commonplace in Greece and Italy has since deteriorated beyond repair, but papyri are still being found in Egypt; extraordinary examples include the Elephantine papyri and the famous finds at Oxyrhynchus and Nag Hammadi. The Villa of the Papyri at Herculaneum, containing the library of Lucius Calpurnius Piso Caesoninus, Julius Caesar's father-in-law, was preserved by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, but has only been partially excavated.

Sporadic attempts to revive the manufacture of papyrus have been made since the mid-18th century. Scottish explorer James Bruce experimented in the late 18th century with papyrus plants from the Sudan, for papyrus had become extinct in Egypt. Also in the 18th century, Sicilian Saverio Landolina manufactured papyrus at Syracuse, where papyrus plants had continued to grow in the wild. During the 1920s, when Egyptologist Battiscombe Gunn lived in Maadi, outside Cairo, he experimented with the manufacture of papyrus, growing the plant in his garden. He beat the sliced papyrus stalks between two layers of linen, and produced successful examples of papyrus, one of which was exhibited in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. The modern technique of papyrus production used in Egypt for the tourist trade was developed in 1962 by the Egyptian engineer Hassan Ragab using plants that had been reintroduced into Egypt in 1872 from France. Both Sicily and Egypt have centres of limited papyrus production.

Papyrus is still used by communities living in the vicinity of swamps, to the extent that rural householders derive up to 75% of their income from swamp goods. Particularly in East and Central Africa, people harvest papyrus, which is used to manufacture items that are sold or used locally. Examples include baskets, hats, fish traps, trays or winnowing mats, and floor mats. Papyrus is also used to make roofs, ceilings, rope and fences. Although alternatives, such as eucalyptus, are increasingly available, papyrus is still used as fuel.

The earliest archaeological evidence of papyrus was excavated in 2012 and 2013 at Wadi al-Jarf, an ancient Egyptian harbor located on the Red Sea coast. These documents, the Diary of Merer, date from c. 2560–2550 BCE (end of the reign of Khufu). The papyrus rolls describe the last years of building the Great Pyramid of Giza. In the first centuries BCE and CE, papyrus scrolls gained a rival as a writing surface in the form of parchment, which was prepared from animal skins. Sheets of parchment were folded to form quires from which book-form codices were fashioned. Early Christian writers soon adopted the codex form, and in the Græco-Roman world, it became common to cut sheets from papyrus rolls to form codices.

Codices were an improvement on the papyrus scroll, as the papyrus was not pliable enough to fold without cracking and a long roll, or scroll, was required to create large-volume texts. Papyrus had the advantage of being relatively cheap and easy to produce, but it was fragile and susceptible to both moisture and excessive dryness. Unless the papyrus was of perfect quality, the writing surface was irregular, and the range of media that could be used was also limited.

Papyrus was replaced in Europe by the cheaper, locally produced products parchment and vellum, of significantly higher durability in moist climates, though Henri Pirenne's connection of its disappearance with the Muslim conquest of Egypt is contested. Its last appearance in the Merovingian chancery is with a document of 692, though it was known in Gaul until the middle of the following century. The latest certain dates for the use of papyrus are 1057 for a papal decree (typically conservative, all papal bulls were on papyrus until 1022), under Pope Victor II, and 1087 for an Arabic document. Its use in Egypt continued until it was replaced by less expensive paper introduced by the Islamic world who originally learned of it from the Chinese. By the 12th century, parchment and paper were in use in the Byzantine Empire, but papyrus was still an option.

Papyrus was made in several qualities and prices. Pliny the Elder and Isidore of Seville described six variations of papyrus which were sold in the Roman market of the day. These were graded by quality based on how fine, firm, white, and smooth the writing surface was. Grades ranged from the superfine Augustan, which was produced in sheets of 13 digits (10 inches) wide, to the least expensive and most coarse, measuring six digits (four inches) wide. Materials deemed unusable for writing or less than six digits were considered commercial quality and were pasted edge to edge to be used only for wrapping.

Until the middle of the 19th century, only some isolated documents written on papyrus were known, and museums simply showed them as curiosities. They did not contain literary works. The first modern discovery of papyri rolls was made at Herculaneum in 1752. Until then, the only papyri known had been a few surviving from medieval times. Scholarly investigations began with the Dutch historian Caspar Jacob Christiaan Reuvens (1793–1835). He wrote about the content of the Leyden papyrus, published in 1830. The first publication has been credited to the British scholar Charles Wycliffe Goodwin (1817–1878), who published for the Cambridge Antiquarian Society, one of the Papyri Graecae Magicae V, translated into English with commentary in 1853.


Poulaines

The 14th century saw the arrival of an abundance of new styles of dress and footwear in Europe, coming in a wide range of fabrics and colours. Among these new fashion trends were “poulaines” – rather eccentric-looking medieval shoes with a lengthy pointed tip.

The archaeological and the historical record suggests that this new fashion item was widely adopted by England’s medieval society and that, by the late 14th century, almost every type of shoe was at least slightly pointed, even in children. Shoe pointiness would eventually became so extreme that in 1463 King Edward IV passed a law limiting toe-point length to less than two inches within London.

The adoption of this latest flavour of footwear was not without its risks. Research conducted on medieval human skeletal remains from Cambridge in England, shows that hallux valgus of the big toe – commonly know as bunions – was surprisingly widespread at the time.

Modern clinical research has shown that the development of bunions is often linked to wearing tight, ill-fitting footwear. Accordingly, the research suggests that people in late medieval England paid a high price for footwear fashion – in bunions and broken bones.

Tanning

. Making Leather .

The tanning process converts animal hides into a putrefaction-resistant product.
The "pre-industrial" process is described in Leather tanning - Medieval to Edwardian.

. original clip on Edwardian Farm .

Spinning - Hx, gallery


Sprang, Nålebinding

Sprang
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h2pcDEnN3Jk
Nålebinding
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A5lebinding
Knitting
Knitting is a technique of producing fabric from a strand of yarn or wool. Unlike weaving, knitting does not require a loom or other large equipment, making it a valuable technique for nomadic and non-agrarian peoples.

The oldest knitted artifacts are socks from Egypt, dating from the 11th century CE. They are a very fine gauge, done with complex colorwork and some have a short row heel, which necessitates the purl stitch. These complexities suggest that knitting is even older than the archeological record can prove.

Earlier pieces having a knitted or crocheted appearance have been shown to be made with other techniques, such as Nålebinding, a technique of making fabric by creating multiple loops with a single needle and thread, much like sewing. Some artifacts have a structure so similar to knitting, for example, 3rd-5th century CE Romano-Egyptian toe-socks, that it is thought the "Coptic stitch" of nalbinding is the forerunner to knitting.

Most histories of knitting place its origin somewhere in the Middle East, and from there it spread to Europe by Mediterranean trade routes and later to the Americas with European colonization.

Archaeological finds from medieval cities all over Europe, such as London, Newcastle, Oslo, Amsterdam, and Lübeck, as well as tax lists, prove the spread of knitted goods for everyday use from the 14th century onward.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_knitting
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitted_fabric#History_of_knitwear
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/N%C3%A5lebinding

Peg Loom ..

Sprang - lesson 1 > .

Salmon-skin clothing

Believe it or not, this summer coat is styled entirely from salmon skin! It was made by a woman from the Nanai ethnic group--also known as the Goldi--who live near the Amur River in eastern Siberia. The strips of salmon skin were dried, soaked, massaged and sewn together, then trimmed with sumptuous salmon-skin appliqué.
Find this coat on display at the Museum with the help of the Explorer app, now available in Beta: http://bit.ly/2b9vpg3 AMNH/M.Shanley .

Tanning and Leather

Natural Leather Tanning: Collecting Tan Oak Bark for Vegetable Tanning Skins, bark tan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KX8g0Yt0ZmI

"Testing a Bunch of Natural Leather Tanning Materials- leaves, barks, roots, acorn caps, etc."
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ox3NcfQz7us

Notholithocarpus densiflorus, commonly known as the tanoak or tanbark-oak, is an evergreen tree in the beech family (Fagaceae), native to the western United States.

Tanbark-oak was recently moved into a new genus, Notholithocarpus (from Lithocarpus), based on multiple lines of evidence. It is most closely related to the north temperate oaks, Quercus, and not as closely related to the Asian tropical stone oaks, Lithocarpus (where it was previously placed), but instead is an example of convergent morphological evolution.

Some California Native Americans prefer this nut to those of many Quercus acorns because it stores well due to the comparatively high tannin content. The Concow tribe call the nut hä’-hä (Konkow language). The Hupa people use the acorns to make meal, from which they would make mush, bread, biscuits, pancakes, and cakes. They also roast the acorns and eat them. Roasted, the seeds can be used as a coffee substitute.

The name tanoak refers to its tannin-rich bark, a type of tanbark, used in the past for tanning leather before the use of modern synthetic tannins. By 1907 the use of tanoak for tannin was subsiding due to the scarcity of large tanoak trees. There weren't enough trees around for a worthwhile economic return. By the early 1960s there were only a few natural tannin operations left in California. The industry was beginning to switch to a synthetic alternative. A mulch made from the leaves of the plant can repel grubs and slugs.

Tanoak tannin has been used as an astringent.

Tanoak is sometimes used as lumber, but isn't currently harvested commercially.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Notholithocarpus

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KX8g0Yt0ZmI&list=PL60FnyEY-eJA7D2FJhI5AvWVx7oqjb4xX&index=1

Medieval tanning pits - Birmingham ~1300
https://youtu.be/JZq9cBzrIVI?t=155 .


Tanning and Leather, SkillCult
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL60FnyEY-eJA7D2FJhI5AvWVx7oqjb4xX

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KX8g0Yt0ZmI

Weaving willow - eal trap, lobster pot, basket

Weaving a Bronze Age, Willow Eel Trap - Sue Kirk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h16Z4ssNHOI

Oak Swill Basket Weaving - Jacob Hesmondhalgh
https://youtu.be/FcnWMEihqIk?t=29s

Basketry, Plaiting - lobster pots to straw hats - Elice Quillinane
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLXYFDuJaCJL3Kq_hMWnQv5E71gEiVuLEt