Commonly known as Pigeons, Rock Doves are often considered a nuisance city and farm bird.
Introduced into North America from Europe long ago, these birds have been associated with humans for thousands of years.
Rock Doves are thought to have been the first domesticated bird, raised for meat as far back as the time of the ancient Egyptians.
Mating Habits
Pairs are monogamous, often breeding in consecutive seasons for as long as both birds of a pair live.
Most will attempt to raise several broods each year. Sometimes as many as four or five broods will be raised in a single year.
Nesting Habits
The nesting habits of these birds are a bit unique. The male chooses a site in view of the female, selecting one stick and bringing it back, lays it in front of his mate.
The female who stays at the nesting site accepts the sticks the male brings to her and places them underneath her.
The nest of the these birds can be found along building ledges, rafters, beams, and under bridges or inside barns.
The nest is saucer-like in shape and made of stems, and leaves.
The female may sit on the nest a day or two before the first egg is laid. Generally 2 white eggs are laid. Both the male and female will incubate the eggs although the female does the incubation during the night.
Incubation last for about 18 days and the young will leave the nest in 25 to 29 days after hatching.
Initially, the young are fed "pigeon milk" (regurgitated food from the parents crops). Over a 10 day period the young are fed increasing amounts of solid food such as caterpillars.
Feeding Habits
Pigeons feed on the ground and can be attracted to platform feeders. Offering crumbs, cracked corn and other grain seeds will attract these birds.
BASIC PIGEON INFORMATION
The bird we're discussing is the domestic pigeon, (Columba livia), which has been bred for various purposes for three thousand years or more. It's descended from a cliff dwelling Eurasian species (the rock dove or rock pigeon) with many close relatives, the closest of which is likely the stock dove (Columba oenas).Various forms of the domestic pigeon exist. Some are bred for their flying abilities. These include tumbling or rolling (somersaulting in the air), diving (coming down from extreme heights at high rates of speed and this diving may or may not be combined with aerobatic maneuvers); and homing (returning at sustained speeds of 45-50 mph to the home loft from distances up to 600 miles). Others are bred for their voice (Trumpeters and Laughers), their great beauty, their feather ornaments or uniqueness. The Fantail, Jacobin, Wing Pigeons and Swallows, as well as the various Color Pigeons stand not only as testaments to the breeder's art, but also as full-fledged contributions to humanity's love of beauty. (Check your local library for: The Encyclopedia of Pigeon Breeds by Wendell Levi or Fancy Pigeons by Erich Muller & Ludvig Schrag to see hundreds of these breeds in color.) You can also check out my links page and look for the links to Color Pigeon clubs both here and abroad. American contributions to the pigeon world include the King - both show and utility, the Domestic Flight and the Texan.
While all domestic pigeons are edible, most of today's show forms are seldom bred for food. However, pigeons are still bred for the table and such birds (Squabbing Pigeons) are normally much bigger than most show or flying breeds. These birds are bred for rapidity of production and size of dressed squab. The largest domestic breed, the Runt or Roman pigeon may reach weights of up to 3-5 lb. (1.5-2.25 kg) and have a three foot (1 meter) wing span. In the U.S., though, it is seldom bred in its pure state for squabbing purposes. It has become more a show bird. The most common squabbing breeds are the Texan, an auto-sexed breed,( i.e., a breed in which sex can be determined at hatched because of the different colors of the cock and hen as a result of the action of Faded, an allele of Almond.) the Utility King and the Utility Carneau (car-no). Anyone interested in further information on utility breeds may want to check out Wendell Levi's books, The Pigeon and Making Pigeons Pay.
ADDENDUM - 04/98
A few of you have noted that I forgot to include some very basic stuff, like how to tell males from females. You're right. When I remember back to my first month or so with the birds, it was very confusing (sometimes, it still is.) Anyway, below is an answer I wrote to one gentleman who asked that question. Hope it helps.
Question: How do I tell males from females? Answer: It's a harder question than you know. Trouble is, it's fairly easy to spot sex differences in homer or roller type birds and a lot harder in some of the fancy show breeds - Basic differences are size; cocks are usually a bit larger and more robust; hens a bit finer, especially in the head. Best differences are behavioral or, occasionally, color, e.g., an ash-red (brick red) bird with any black flecking in the ashy color of the wings or tail is invariably a male. Birds without such black flecking may be either, but about 70% will be female just because of the breeding practices of most guys. Behavioral differences are easy to note once you've gotten to know your birds. Cocks strut, coo and spread their tail into a full half moon shape and often turn a full circle when they do; females will swell their crops with some air but usually stand at a more upright angle (45 degrees or so) when they do it, as opposed to the cock who almost bows to the floor. In a mated pair, cocks sit on the nest from about 10 am to 5 pm; hens the rest of the time. Cocks drink by sticking their beak in the water almost up to their eyes and gulping; hens - except when desperately thirsty ususally tend to drink by sticking on the first half of their beak in the water and almost sip it, as opposed to the cock's gulp. Hope this helps.
Breeding & Incubation
The domestic pigeon normally reaches sexual maturity at about five to six months of age. Depending on the local temperatures and food supply, they may breed all year round. Many fanciers, however, prevent them from breeding continuously -- either by separating the sexes, or by letting mated pairs sit on wooden (dummy) eggs.
Once mated, the male (cock) will begin to hunt for a suitable place to make a nest and rear young. Domestic pigeons do not nest in trees as do many other doves. They are descendants of a cliff dwelling species and prefer their nest to be on a solid surface. Most fanciers (breeders) also provide a nest bowl and some nesting materials (pine needles, tobacco stems, etc.) for the birds to use. The nest bowl helps to ensure that the eggs do not roll out from under the pair and chill.
Both male and female take part in the incubation and rearing of the young. Females lay their first egg about 10 days after mating, usually in the late afternoon or early evening. A second egg is laid about 44 hours later. Two eggs is the normal clutch size. Incubation commences with the laying of the second egg. The male (cock) bird usually broods from about 10 a.m. until 5 p.m., the female (hen) the rest of the time. Hatching normally occurs 18 days from start of incubation. Youngsters are fed by both parents -- and here is where pigeons/doves are unique. The parents need not even leave the nest to hunt down insects, etc., as do many other genera or species. Instead, they feed their young on a glandular crop secretion called "pigeon milk". It is not actually milk, and there is no lactose in it, but its production is stimulated by prolactin, the same hormone which stimulates milk production in mammals. Pigeon milk looks more like a cream-colored cottage cheese and is a high protein food which is fed to the youngsters from hatching till about ten days old when regurgitated grain and grit replace it as the major food source. Domestic pigeons usually have a seamless aluminum identity band placed on their leg at about ten days of age. This band is coded with year of hatch, club identification and a number. Youngsters fledge at about 35 days. However, when the young are about eighteen days old, the parents will often commence to renest. It is not uncommon for one round of youngsters to be fledging at the same time that next are hatching.
Food/Housing
Pigeons are grain eaters. Most feed stores stock an adequate mix for them. Depending upon the time of year and whether breeding youngsters or not, the birds usually get a mix which ranges between 12% and 17% protein. Protein percentages higher than that for long periods of time often lead to gout or other problems for the birds. Pigeons also need a mineral grit mixture (chicken grit is not suitable for pigeons). This grit mixture, too, can be purchased at most feed stores. Pigeons also need clean water daily. All three items are usually fed separately. Pigeons appreciate green food: romaine lettuce, etc., but this is not necessary and millions of birds have been reared without it. It is essential that every effort is made to keep the water, feed and grit clean with no contamination allowed. If this is done, pigeons are extremely hardy animals. If not, the breeder is leaving his stock open to various bacteriological and parasitic infections. But then, this is just common sense. Unless you're a dung beetle larva, the idea of fecal pellets for breakfast is not particularly appealing.
The most important requirement as to pigeon housing is that the interior always be kept dry. Dampness brings disease. Pigeons are not ducks. Accommodations for pigeons range from luxurious racing lofts which costs upwards of a half million dollars to converted tool sheds. So long as feed is kept clean and the interior dry, each houses the birds just fine. The Levi books mentioned above, as well as others available from pigeon supply companies, show many ideas for loft construction.
